Surfing has a steep learning curve, which is partly why many people enjoy it as much as they do. Here are some things that I’ve learned that will help you become a better surfer and feel more comfortable in the water.
Turning at Linda Mar, Pacifica, California.
Try out as many different boards as you can. There are so many shapes, sizes, thicknesses, materials and designs now that it’s worth finding what you like and don’t like in a surfboard.
Swim in the ocean as much as possible. Even swimming with just swim fins on or with a boogie board will show you a different experience, but ultimately help your stand-up surfing technique.
After a wave goes by you while you’re in the water, watch the back of the wave and notice how it breaks. Remember what the wave looked like as it came towards you and you’ll get a better idea of the best waves to try and catch.
For surf spots with strong currents, use landmarks to triangulate your position in the water. If you notice you're getting pulled out or pulled into a non-desirable area, paddle perpendicular to the current to get back to a good position. Usually this will be parallel to the beach, but don't be surprised if you need to paddle further out to get back to where the waves will push you back to shore.
For surf spots with strong currents, use landmarks to triangulate your position in the water. If you notice you're getting pulled out or pulled into a non-desirable area, paddle perpendicular to the current to get back to a good position. Usually this will be parallel to the beach, but don't be surprised if you need to paddle further out to get back to where the waves will push you back to shore.
Surf with a better surfer and learn from them.
Surf with a sailor and learn from them about changes in the tide and overall water conditions.
Add surf related exercises to your on-land workouts. Use exercises that mimic surfing related motions, especially core work, off-balance weight exercises, and back, shoulder, and chest exercises. Don’t forget to get some leg routines in as well for better turning and power while riding.
Learn how to become a better paddler. There are several articles online about this. Most of the time you’ll be paddling.
When paddling into a wave, keep your head down and paddle 2 more times than you think you need to.
Hold onto your board at all times unless it's absolutely not an option.
When paddling into a wave, keep your head down and paddle 2 more times than you think you need to.
Hold onto your board at all times unless it's absolutely not an option.
Practice duck-diving on shortboards and turtle-rolling if you have a longer board.
Visualize yourself surfing and doing moves you want to try. Watch lots of surf videos and watch how professional surfers move.
Buy good equipment and take care of it. Wetsuits can rip over time if you’re not careful getting in and out of them. There’s also nice biological cleaners you can get to wash your wetsuit from time to time. It makes a big difference in how clean it is. Keep your leashes straight by hanging them from the ceiling when not using them. This will help prevent them from coiling up over time.
Buy a leash with a key holder in the ankle strap. Much better than hiding your key somewhere on your car on on the beach.
Take a free-diving course and practice breath holding. This will raise your comfort level in the water and in rougher conditions tremendously.
Eat a small amount of high-energy food before you go surf. You won’t want too much in your stomach and you need lots of energy to have a good session. I like oatmeal with honey and flaxseeds and a handful of almonds.
Stay hydrated before and after your session.
Learn the code and have respect. Respect the ocean, the beach, and other surfers. Respect the local community. Look both ways before you paddle into a wave and don’t drop-in on anyone.
Have fun!
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